Water Wise

How to Maintain and Care for your Trees

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The Basics

Trees need your attention to survive & thrive! 

Healthy Roots, Healthy Trees

Feeding

Now is the time to apply your first feed of the season. Apply a slow-release, granular tree and shrub fertilizer in the mulched saucer at the base of the tree and water in well. Re-apply the tree and shrub fertilizer again in mid-July, but do not feed your trees after the first of August as this can promote new growth that may not have time to harden-off before winter. If your trees are struggling this spring, apply both the slow-release granular feed and a water-soluble fertilizer once per week for the next four weeks. Apply as per the manufacture’s specifications.

Place the fertilizer around the root zone and water in really well

Watering

We’re having a very dry spring with little rain following a winter with very little snow, and we’ve gone from winter to summer in just a few weeks. As a result, we are now experiencing very dry ground and soil conditions. With a lack of natural moisture, you need to make sure your plants receive adequate water. To get a visual understanding of how much water a tree requires, think of it this way – a tree requires at least the same amount of water as the size of the rootball (when planted) at least 3 times per week. You need to make sure your tree receives at least 5-10 gallons of water directly to its roots at least 3 times per week, throughout the two growing seasons. This will ensure your trees are getting a really good deep root soaking.  Trees require supplementary water at this time of the year to form healthy foliage.

Trees need extra water was they produce new leaves. Water your trees weekly with a garden hose.

Caterpillar Damage

We have been seeing damage on tree leaves this spring. If you are seeing holes in tree foliage, it might be from caterpillars and bugs – they seem to be in abundance this spring. The best solution is to spray with Bug-be-Gone. Make sure you spray on a day with little or no wind and follow the manufactures instructions on the bottle. Please ensure you are wearing your personal protection equipment before commencing with any tree spraying.

Gypsy Moth Caterpillars can eat through trees foliage leaving unsightly holes and damage

Winter Damage

With last winter’s weather conditions – a few really cold days and then warm days – there has been winter damage on trees. This usually doesn’t kill a tree, however, it can be unsightly for the growing season. You can choose to remove dead branch tips, but as the tree grows over the summer most of the winter damage will be hidden by new growth. Make sure to water your trees well up until the first hard frost of the season. Trees that have enough water in their branches and needles tend to do better through the winter and have less spring damage.

Trees just need a bit of TLC and they will be lovely for years. Trees add value to your property.

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

Healthy Roots, Healthy Plants. Watering & Feeding Your Plant Roots.

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Healthy Trees come from Healthy Roots

The Basics

Reality: We’re Already in Drought Conditions

We’re having a very dry spring with little rain and last winter there was very little snow. We’ve gone from winter to summer in just a few weeks. As a result, we are now experiencing very dry ground and soil conditions.

With a lack of natural moisture, you need to make sure your plants and trees receive adequate water. To get a visual understanding of how much water a tree, shrub, or perennial requires, think of it this way – a plant requires at least the same amount of water as the size of the rootball or container (when planted) at least 3 times per week. For example, if a shrub came in a 3-gallon container, you need to make sure the shrub receives at least 3-gallons of water directly to its roots at least 3 times per week, throughout the growing season. This will ensure your plants are getting a really good deep root soaking, not just a light shower foliage wash.   

Think Carrots

Photo by Monika Grabkowska, Unsplash

I think the best example I can give is carrots. When carrots receive little water and not a deep soaking, they tend to be short, fat, and small. If carrots receive deep watering so that the soil is saturated, they grow longer, wider, and bigger. When plant roots receive only a light sprinkling of water on their foliage, they tend to develop small shallow roots that don’t spread into the ground, whereas plants that receive a deep, long watering directly to their roots tend to develop deep, far-reaching roots that are able to support healthy plant growth. Simply put – the larger the roots of a plant, the greater their ability to take up water and nutrients to support healthy growth.  

Feeding Roots

If you haven’t fed your gardens and trees, now is the time to do so. You can apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer to your garden plants (shrubs, perennials and grasses) and apply a tree and shrub granular fertilizer to your coniferous and evergreen trees. Both fertilizers will need to be watered in well and deeply after feeding by either extending your irrigation timing or watering by hand with a garden hose. Fertilizer can be applied around the plant root zone (side-dress). Perennials need only a couple tablespoons of fertilizer, whereas large trees do best with a couple cups of fertilizer. Follow the manufactures instructions for application rates. Make sure to not allow fertilizer granules to cluster in the crown of the plants, as it may cause burning. If your plants are struggling this spring, apply a water-soluble fertilizer once per week for the next 4 weeks.

Grow Big Roots

We spend way too much time thinking about how pretty the top portion of the plant is with its pretty flowers and attractive leaves, and not enough time thinking about how very, very important the roots are to plant health. If you work to grow healthy plant roots by watering adequately and feeding your plants, your plants will develop roots that can support attractive leaves and pretty flowers. When trees, shrubs and perennials aren’t thriving, it is usually due to a lack of water. Plants can survive without fertilizer; they cannot survive and thrive without water. Plants in poor health from a lack of water tend to be more prone to diseases and pests. It’s nature’s way of culling weak plants.

Healthy Roots, Healthy Trees

Spring Plant Damage

If you are seeing plant damage this spring, I strongly suggest it is from a lack of water at the time of planting, during last summer’s heat, and last fall’s drought. I’m seeing plants that are very hardy in our area completely gone this spring. With last summer’s heat, little winter snow, and even less spring rain, we are already in drought conditions. You cannot depend on an irrigation system to supply enough water to newly installed plants with small, immature root systems – any plants installed in the last 2 growing seasons. Extra water must be applied for these plants to thrive. If you have soaker hose system, please ensure the hose sits directly beside the plants and there is enough soaker hose to reach every plant. If you have a spray head system, please ensure water is not being blocked by taller plants. Flowering gardens with soaker hose require at least 1 hour and 15 minutes of water per session, whereas spray head systems require at least 45 minutes of water per session. This timing applies for the full growing season. If you are in an area with sandy soil, watering is your number one priority. Plants starting to wilt, the leaves of deciduous trees looking soft not ridged, and needles of coniferous trees dropping are sure signs your plants are not receiving adequate amounts water during watering sessions. 

Water the Roots…Not the Leaves  

Many plants have perished because they didn’t get sufficient water at the time of planting and during their first two growing seasons. If you want to grow healthy, strong plants in your yard, you need to promote strong, healthy deep roots systems.

Think Roots First!

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

What to Plant with a Mature Lilac?

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Brilliant Ideas! Companion Planting!

Are you wondering what you can plant with mature lilac? You’ll be surprised to know there a number of amazing companion plants that work really well in the same garden as a mature lilac.

From a Facebook enquire – Pamela asked “Can I plant peonies in the same soil as a big lilac plot? I tried hydrangea in the same spot, and they didn’t do well, little foliage and they didn’t flower.”

The answer is yes, you can plant peonies in the same plot as the big lilac and yes, you can grow hydrangea as well.

Here’s what you need to know!

The roots of a mature lilac extend out past the dripline (ends of the branches at the widest point of the shrub canopy) by at least 1 ½ to 2 times. It is important to understand the size of the lilac root zone because the soil in this area will be dry. Simply put, the mature lilac roots take most of the water in this area, making soil conditions really dry. If you are going to plant in the root zone of a lilac, the only solution is to make sure you provide extra water to newly installed plants for at least the first 2 growing seasons. This might mean you need to hand water newly planted shrubs and perennials at least 3 times a week for the first growing season, and twice a week in the second growing season, and in times of really hot, dry weather, water daily.

Roots extend out at least 1 1/2 to 2 times the size of the branches.

Here’s what I did!

Like Pamela, I have a mature lilac in my front yard. I’ve planted Annabelle hydrangea next to the lilac because I wanted summer blooms and I really like hydrangeas. It took about 3 years for the Annabelle hydrangea to really get their roots established. For the first couple of growing seasons, I too only had small foliage and no blooms, but I kept giving the hydrangeas extra water through the growing season and in the third summer I was rewarded with blooms. Just a note, Annabelle hydrangea do need a bit of fertilizer in the spring but not much. Overfeeding will simply produce weak stems, excessive leafy growth and reduces flowering. You only need about 4 tablespoons per 4 square feet. Hydrangea naturally require a lot of water, especially in sunny locations so you may find you need to water daily.

Yes, you can plant peony in the lilac plot. I have planted pretty pink lacey peony in the same garden as my mature lilac. I did have to cut through a few of the fine lilac roots to plant the peony, however they have worked well.  Peony tend not to be too fussy. They like full sun, shelter from strong winds, and they don’t like to be planted to deeply. When planting container grown peony, make sure the soil surface in the pot is at grade when the new plant is in the ground. If you bury the roots too deeply, you will get tons of foliage but no blooms.

Pink peony after the rain

Mature lilac garden design!

From a design perspective, planting peony with lilac means lots of blooms in late spring, but none in summer or fall. If you have the space in your lilac garden and want summer blooms, here are my suggestions for companion perennials that really work.    

Koi Avens (Geum)
Moses Fire Daylily
Butterflies love sedum

Kiwi Gull Monty Hosta
Blue Boa Hyssop

There are numerous flowering shrubs and perennials that work really well as companions with a mature lilac. Most of the above come in a wide range of colours, textures, and heights. Try a few with your mature lilac.

Happy Gardening

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

Plant Science! Why do Plants Wilt in your Garden?

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Water, Water, Water!

There are a few reasons why plants wilt however the most common reason outdoor plants wilt is from a lack of water.

Turgor Pressure in Plants

In simple terms, plants wilt when there isn’t enough water in their leaves and stems to support the plant. Turgor pressure (I’m getting my science on) in leaves and stems is low so they start to look droopy.

Remember Grade 10 biology?  When the teacher talked about osmosis?  The movement of water across a membrane from an area of high pressure to an area of low pressure. Come on, you remember this!

When there isn’t enough water in the soil surrounding plant roots, roots can’t take up enough water to keep turgor pressure strong in leaves and stems, so plants start to droop. They loss their turgor! After a good rain (or watering) plants will start to perk up again as roots take up water via osmosis to leaves and stems, therefore increasing turgor pressure in their cells. That’s plant science!

Sketch from Ms. Arnwine – Weebly

Why is it importance to keep plants from wilting, you ask? 

One of the main reasons is cell damage.  When plants lack water and wilt, cells in the plant get damaged. Over time from a lack of rain (or you forget to water) cell damage can occur and you will see dark spots on leaves and stems or dead leaves on your plants. If left for too long without water, plants can die.

With our summers being so hot and dry, selecting the right plant for the right location becomes very important. 

Great List of Perennials for Hot, Dry Locations

Plants with tuberous roots have the ability to store water for times of drought. Daylilies are a great example of plants with tuberous roots and therefore, are a great choice for hot, dry locations. Plants with tuberous or bulb roots!

Iris

Peony (Paeonia)

Stonecrop (Sedum)

Crocosmia

If you don’t like to water, you can select plants with small leaves and pretty blooms.  Try a few of these! 

Yarrow (Achillea)

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias)

Tickseed (Coreopsis)

Globe Thistle (Echinops)

Lenton Rose (Helleborus)

Catmint (Nepeta)

Meadow Sage (Salvia)

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Keep your plants happy by watering before they wilt. Get outside, have fun in your gardens.

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

The Power Of Native Plants

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Sustainable, Native, Pollinator

Imagine a garden that is not only beautiful and inviting, but is also a model of a sustainable eco-system. Native plants, ones that occur naturally in the local surroundings tend to be better adapted to the local climate and soil conditions, and therefore more resistant to diseases and pests than hybrid plants. They are better able to survive in drought conditions once established, and thrive in adverse growing conditions. Native plants invite wildlife like bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and birds to visit. They don’t need to be manicured, they can be a bit wild, and they are low maintenance2015-07-24 13.57.17-1 while still being pretty.

Why?

  • Native gardening is a popular tend for home gardens. It is a shift in the way we think about our flower gardens
  • Native gardens are a movement towards healing & restoring the land
  • Native plants tend to be water wise, low maintenance, disease resistant, drought tolerant once established & they thrive in the right conditions
  • Create a sustainable eco-system; above & below the soil

What are Native Plants?

  • True native plants are those that grow naturally in our area. They are plants here prior to European settlers.
  • Indigenous native plants include woody plants, perennials, & grasses. Native plant can be selected for all growing conditions including sun & shade, dry or moist conditions, & in any soil

What Will the Neighbours Say?

  • A native garden can be as formal or informal as you choose to make it
  • Some of my clients worry their native garden might get complaints from the neighbours for being ‘too wild’; it’s all about the layout of the plants
  • Consider this as extra incentive to make your garden a place of show-stopping beauty!

Benefits | Environmental

  • Low maintenance once established so it saves you time
  • Leave your leaves. Recycle nutrients by soil composting below ground
  • Reduced the need for chemicals & fertilizers because native plants are less prone to diseases & pests, and they don’t need to be feed each month
  • Combat climate change. Be part of climate change by planting plants. Reduce carbon pollution by planting long living trees. Be part of the solution.
  • Conserving Water. Native plants tend to thrive even in the heat and therefore, need less water than hybrid plants.

Benefits | Beauty in Your Garden

  • Many native plants offer beautiful, showy flowers that produce an abundance of interesting, colour seed heads & fruits
  • Brilliant seasonal colour changes from the pale greens in spring to vibrant yellows, oranges and reds in the fall
  • Creates an amazing winterscapes with interesting stems and branches
  • Native plants create movement and sound in the garden
  • Create a natural background as a wonderful sitting place to watch and enjoy wildlife!
  • Just as important to gardeners are the practical and aesthetic benefits of native plant gardening: less work and lots of beauty! You’ll quickly discover that native plant gardens almost look after themselves–after all, that’s what happens in nature, and native gardens are based on natural principles.

Benefits | Wildlife

Imagine a songbird, flying northwards after a long migratory journey, looking for nourishment & finding… acres & acres of manicured lawn or a toad, looking for a pond in which to breed and finding…a sea of asphalt….

  • Native plants provide habitat for a wide variety of creatures such as birds, butterflies & bees, whereas, hybrid plants tend to be designed to attract people
  • Provide a home for many native plants that are becoming increasingly rare in the wild
  • Create a sustainable habitat. Oak Trees 500 species of caterpillars for birds
  • Butterflies & moths depend on specific plant for food that you can provide in your native garden
  • Provide shelter for flying friends

Near North Garden Plant Material List

Flowering Shrubs

Cephalanthus occidentalis, BUTTONBUSH

Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’, RED TWIG DOGWOOD

Diervilla lonicera, LOW BUSH HONEYSUCKLE

Rubus odoratus, FLOWERING RASPBERRY

Symphoricarpos albus, SNOWBERRY

Groundcovers

Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, BEARBERRY

Roses

Rosa blanda, SMOOTH WILD ROSE

Native Grasses

Andropogon gerardii, BIG BLUESTEM

Andropogon scoparius, LITTLE BLUESTEM

Bouteloua gracilis, BLUE GRAMA

Chasmanthium latifolium, NORTHERN SEA OATS

Koeleria cristata, JUNE GRASS

Sorghastrum nutans, INDIAN GRASS

Wildflowers

Achillea millefolium, COMMON YARROW

Agastache scrophulariifolia, PURPLE GIANT HYSSOP

Aquilegia canadensis, COLUMBINE

Aruncus dioicus, GOATSBEARD

Asclepias syriaca, SWAMP MILKWEED

Asclepias tuberosa, BUTTERFLY WEED

Campanula rotundifolia, HAREBELL

Chelone glabra, WHITE TURTLEHEAD

Coreopsis lanceolata, LANCE-LEAFED CORESPSIS

Dalea purpurea, PURPLE CLOVER

Desmodium canadense, SHOWY TICK TREFOIL

Echinacea pallida, PALE PURPLE CONE FLOWER

Epilobium angustifolium, FIREWEED

Eupatorium maculatum, SPOTTED JOE PYE WEED

Geranium maculatum,  WILD GERANIUM

Helianthus maximillaini, MAXIMILLAIN’S SUNFLOWER

Heliopsis helianthoides,  FALSE SUNFLOWER

Iris versicolor, BLUE FLAG IRIS

Liatris ligulistylus, MEADOW BLAZINGSTAR

Monarda didyma, WILD BEEBALM

Monarda fistulosa,  WILD BERGAMOT 6″ pot

Oenothera biennis, Native Yellow EVENING PRIMROSE

Rudbeckia hirta, CONEFLOWER

Rudbeckia triloba, BRANCHED CONEFLOWER

Silphium perfoliatum, CUP PLANT

I hope you will take time to journey through the new gardens at the Near North Enviro-Education Centre this summer, and in those to follow as they mature and change personality.  I encourage home gardeners to come and steal ideas to create your own eco-friendly gardens.  Happy Gardening.

Lexi Dearborn