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Spring Gardens

Healthy Roots, Healthy Plants. Watering & Feeding Your Plant Roots.

June 11, 2020 by Lexi Dearborn Leave a Comment

Healthy Trees come from Healthy Roots

The Basics

Reality: We’re Already in Drought Conditions

We’re having a very dry spring with little rain and last winter there was very little snow. We’ve gone from winter to summer in just a few weeks. As a result, we are now experiencing very dry ground and soil conditions.

With a lack of natural moisture, you need to make sure your plants and trees receive adequate water. To get a visual understanding of how much water a tree, shrub, or perennial requires, think of it this way – a plant requires at least the same amount of water as the size of the rootball or container (when planted) at least 3 times per week. For example, if a shrub came in a 3-gallon container, you need to make sure the shrub receives at least 3-gallons of water directly to its roots at least 3 times per week, throughout the growing season. This will ensure your plants are getting a really good deep root soaking, not just a light shower foliage wash.   

Think Carrots

Photo by Monika Grabkowska, Unsplash

I think the best example I can give is carrots. When carrots receive little water and not a deep soaking, they tend to be short, fat, and small. If carrots receive deep watering so that the soil is saturated, they grow longer, wider, and bigger. When plant roots receive only a light sprinkling of water on their foliage, they tend to develop small shallow roots that don’t spread into the ground, whereas plants that receive a deep, long watering directly to their roots tend to develop deep, far-reaching roots that are able to support healthy plant growth. Simply put – the larger the roots of a plant, the greater their ability to take up water and nutrients to support healthy growth.  

Feeding Roots

If you haven’t fed your gardens and trees, now is the time to do so. You can apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer to your garden plants (shrubs, perennials and grasses) and apply a tree and shrub granular fertilizer to your coniferous and evergreen trees. Both fertilizers will need to be watered in well and deeply after feeding by either extending your irrigation timing or watering by hand with a garden hose. Fertilizer can be applied around the plant root zone (side-dress). Perennials need only a couple tablespoons of fertilizer, whereas large trees do best with a couple cups of fertilizer. Follow the manufactures instructions for application rates. Make sure to not allow fertilizer granules to cluster in the crown of the plants, as it may cause burning. If your plants are struggling this spring, apply a water-soluble fertilizer once per week for the next 4 weeks.

Grow Big Roots

We spend way too much time thinking about how pretty the top portion of the plant is with its pretty flowers and attractive leaves, and not enough time thinking about how very, very important the roots are to plant health. If you work to grow healthy plant roots by watering adequately and feeding your plants, your plants will develop roots that can support attractive leaves and pretty flowers. When trees, shrubs and perennials aren’t thriving, it is usually due to a lack of water. Plants can survive without fertilizer; they cannot survive and thrive without water. Plants in poor health from a lack of water tend to be more prone to diseases and pests. It’s nature’s way of culling weak plants.

Healthy Roots, Healthy Trees

Spring Plant Damage

If you are seeing plant damage this spring, I strongly suggest it is from a lack of water at the time of planting, during last summer’s heat, and last fall’s drought. I’m seeing plants that are very hardy in our area completely gone this spring. With last summer’s heat, little winter snow, and even less spring rain, we are already in drought conditions. You cannot depend on an irrigation system to supply enough water to newly installed plants with small, immature root systems – any plants installed in the last 2 growing seasons. Extra water must be applied for these plants to thrive. If you have soaker hose system, please ensure the hose sits directly beside the plants and there is enough soaker hose to reach every plant. If you have a spray head system, please ensure water is not being blocked by taller plants. Flowering gardens with soaker hose require at least 1 hour and 15 minutes of water per session, whereas spray head systems require at least 45 minutes of water per session. This timing applies for the full growing season. If you are in an area with sandy soil, watering is your number one priority. Plants starting to wilt, the leaves of deciduous trees looking soft not ridged, and needles of coniferous trees dropping are sure signs your plants are not receiving adequate amounts water during watering sessions. 

Water the Roots…Not the Leaves  

Many plants have perished because they didn’t get sufficient water at the time of planting and during their first two growing seasons. If you want to grow healthy, strong plants in your yard, you need to promote strong, healthy deep roots systems.

Think Roots First!

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

Filed Under: Garden Maintenance, Gardening. Life & Learning!, Plant Science, Planting Tips, Spring Gardens, Sustainable Gardens, Water Wise Tagged With: Feeding plants, Growing plants, Healthy Plants, Healthy roots, Plant Health, Water instructions, Watering plants

Six essential spring flowering garden tips

April 13, 2020 by Lexi Dearborn Leave a Comment

The Basics

April brings out the eager gardener in everyone. We want to get out there and cutback perennials, prune shrubs and putter about in the sunshine. Here are a few essential tips for opening your flowering gardens this spring.

Tip one: Understand your soil

Don’t rush spring. It’s important to wait until the soil in your garden is warm and dry. Working a garden that is still cold and wet can lead to soil compaction. That’s bad! Walking on cold, wet soil crushes soil pore spaces – those are little pockets of air between soil particles. Crushed soil pore spaces can lead to soil compaction. When it rains or you water, it will run off your garden instead of percolating into the soil.  

Tip two: Clean out winter debris

Ideally, just as spring bulbs start to pop up it is time to clean debris from your flowering gardens. This includes removing matted down leaves, last year’s perennial stems and ornamental grass blades.  Remember, lots of beneficial insects, including tiny native bees and predators, spend the winter hunkered down in hollow plant stems either as adults or pupae. Cutting down dead plant stems too early in the spring can disturb them before they have had a chance to emerge.  

Spring bee on spring crocus

I use my hand to rake matted leaves (I wear a glove) from my gardens instead of using a formal garden rake. By using my hand to rake debris, I’m able to leave as much garden mulch intact as possible. This in turn saves me money in mulch replacement. 

Cut back perennial stems using sharp pruners; while ornamental grasses blades can be cut back using sharp hedge clippers. Neither needs cutting right back to the ground to the crown of the plant. Cut back perennials to about three inches from the ground. Ornamental grasses at a height of six inches is more than adequate.  

Properly cutback perennials
Properly cutback ornamental grasses

Tip three: Tidy up shrubs

Most flowering shrubs require a bit of a ‘tidy up’ rather than a ‘cut it all down’ prune in spring. If your shrubs have been in the ground less then three years, spring clean-up is a breeze. Here’s what you need to do:

  1. Remove any broken branches or stems with sharp pruners.  
  2. Remove any dead (last season’s) blooms.
  3. Remember, if it flowers in the spring (April, May or June) now is not the time to prune. Prune after they bloom. Spring blooming shrubs set flower buds in the fall. A hard spring pruning can remove or damage new flowers. Here is a short list of shrubs that flower in spring.
    • Forsythia
    • Lilac
    • Ninebark
    • Serviceberry
    • Deutzia
    • Weigela
  4. Shrubs that bloom in the summer (July, August and September) are safe to prune now, as they set flower buds in the spring. Here’s a short list of summer blooming shrubs.
    • Hydrangea
    • Spirea
    • Potentilla
    • Rose of Sharon
    • Summersweet

If you’re not sure of what or how to tidy your shrubs, shoot me an email.

Tip four: Weed, weed and weed

Garden weeds that appear in the spring are easy to remove because they have shallow roots. You can simply pull small weeds by hand or use an old table fork (this works really well) to get weeds out. Very clever! Weeds can be cultivated using a sharp hoe to slice the undesired plant just below the soil line so they shrivel up and die. For larger more developed weeds, you will need to get the shovel to dig out and attack weeds at their roots. Note: For smaller weed removal, garden soil should be a bit damp for best results. However, for weed removal using a garden hoe or shovel, it best to wait until soil is warm and gardens are dry. “Weeds are nature’s graffiti.” ~ J.L.W. Brooks

Tip five: Feed your plants and water well

Trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses need fuel to produce luxurious blooms, sturdy stems and vigorous leaves. Late May is the perfect time to apply a well-balanced granular fertilizer (15-15-15) to plants.  There is no need to purchase fertilizer for every type of plant in your yard. A balanced fertilizer is all you need. Fertilizer can be applied around the plant root zone (side-dress) with perennials, which need only a couple tablespoons of feed. Large, mature trees do best with between two to three cups of fertilizer.  Make sure to not allow fertilizer granules to cluster in the crown of the plants, as it may cause burning. Water in fertilizer well after feeding.   

Tip six: Mulch has a job

Mulching helps retain soil moisture by providing a protective layer between soil, sun and drying winds. It keeps soil cool, helps prevent crusting and leaching and inhibits the growth of weed seeds. Natural organic mulches add humus, as soil organisms like earthworms break it down. This organic waste (soil aggregates) helps build soil structure. So mulching is a good thing. And gives your flowering gardens a professional, finished look.

In the spring, it’s important to move (or fluff) your mulch. I know right? What happens is mulch compresses with the weight of snow leaving a crust on the top. Moving mulch around in the spring, breaks up this crest layer and allows water to flow through to the soil. If mulch is not uncrested, water will simply run off leaving plants thirsty. Once you have moved the mulch around, you might find spots with little or no mulch. Now is the time to top up mulch to a depth of two to three inches in all garden areas.

Enjoy the lovely spring weather by getting out in your gardens. Landscapes for Living!

Lexi Dearborn

Dearborn Designs & Associates | Advanced Master Gardener | Certified Horticulturist

Filed Under: Eco-friendly, Garden Maintenance, Gardening. Life & Learning!, Plant Science, Planting Tips, Spring Gardens, Wildlife Tagged With: Spring Garden Tips

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