Planting Tips

How to Maintain and Care for your Trees

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The Basics

Trees need your attention to survive & thrive! 

Healthy Roots, Healthy Trees

Feeding

Now is the time to apply your first feed of the season. Apply a slow-release, granular tree and shrub fertilizer in the mulched saucer at the base of the tree and water in well. Re-apply the tree and shrub fertilizer again in mid-July, but do not feed your trees after the first of August as this can promote new growth that may not have time to harden-off before winter. If your trees are struggling this spring, apply both the slow-release granular feed and a water-soluble fertilizer once per week for the next four weeks. Apply as per the manufacture’s specifications.

Place the fertilizer around the root zone and water in really well

Watering

We’re having a very dry spring with little rain following a winter with very little snow, and we’ve gone from winter to summer in just a few weeks. As a result, we are now experiencing very dry ground and soil conditions. With a lack of natural moisture, you need to make sure your plants receive adequate water. To get a visual understanding of how much water a tree requires, think of it this way – a tree requires at least the same amount of water as the size of the rootball (when planted) at least 3 times per week. You need to make sure your tree receives at least 5-10 gallons of water directly to its roots at least 3 times per week, throughout the two growing seasons. This will ensure your trees are getting a really good deep root soaking.  Trees require supplementary water at this time of the year to form healthy foliage.

Trees need extra water was they produce new leaves. Water your trees weekly with a garden hose.

Caterpillar Damage

We have been seeing damage on tree leaves this spring. If you are seeing holes in tree foliage, it might be from caterpillars and bugs – they seem to be in abundance this spring. The best solution is to spray with Bug-be-Gone. Make sure you spray on a day with little or no wind and follow the manufactures instructions on the bottle. Please ensure you are wearing your personal protection equipment before commencing with any tree spraying.

Gypsy Moth Caterpillars can eat through trees foliage leaving unsightly holes and damage

Winter Damage

With last winter’s weather conditions – a few really cold days and then warm days – there has been winter damage on trees. This usually doesn’t kill a tree, however, it can be unsightly for the growing season. You can choose to remove dead branch tips, but as the tree grows over the summer most of the winter damage will be hidden by new growth. Make sure to water your trees well up until the first hard frost of the season. Trees that have enough water in their branches and needles tend to do better through the winter and have less spring damage.

Trees just need a bit of TLC and they will be lovely for years. Trees add value to your property.

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

Healthy Roots, Healthy Plants. Watering & Feeding Your Plant Roots.

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Healthy Trees come from Healthy Roots

The Basics

Reality: We’re Already in Drought Conditions

We’re having a very dry spring with little rain and last winter there was very little snow. We’ve gone from winter to summer in just a few weeks. As a result, we are now experiencing very dry ground and soil conditions.

With a lack of natural moisture, you need to make sure your plants and trees receive adequate water. To get a visual understanding of how much water a tree, shrub, or perennial requires, think of it this way – a plant requires at least the same amount of water as the size of the rootball or container (when planted) at least 3 times per week. For example, if a shrub came in a 3-gallon container, you need to make sure the shrub receives at least 3-gallons of water directly to its roots at least 3 times per week, throughout the growing season. This will ensure your plants are getting a really good deep root soaking, not just a light shower foliage wash.   

Think Carrots

Photo by Monika Grabkowska, Unsplash

I think the best example I can give is carrots. When carrots receive little water and not a deep soaking, they tend to be short, fat, and small. If carrots receive deep watering so that the soil is saturated, they grow longer, wider, and bigger. When plant roots receive only a light sprinkling of water on their foliage, they tend to develop small shallow roots that don’t spread into the ground, whereas plants that receive a deep, long watering directly to their roots tend to develop deep, far-reaching roots that are able to support healthy plant growth. Simply put – the larger the roots of a plant, the greater their ability to take up water and nutrients to support healthy growth.  

Feeding Roots

If you haven’t fed your gardens and trees, now is the time to do so. You can apply an all-purpose granular fertilizer to your garden plants (shrubs, perennials and grasses) and apply a tree and shrub granular fertilizer to your coniferous and evergreen trees. Both fertilizers will need to be watered in well and deeply after feeding by either extending your irrigation timing or watering by hand with a garden hose. Fertilizer can be applied around the plant root zone (side-dress). Perennials need only a couple tablespoons of fertilizer, whereas large trees do best with a couple cups of fertilizer. Follow the manufactures instructions for application rates. Make sure to not allow fertilizer granules to cluster in the crown of the plants, as it may cause burning. If your plants are struggling this spring, apply a water-soluble fertilizer once per week for the next 4 weeks.

Grow Big Roots

We spend way too much time thinking about how pretty the top portion of the plant is with its pretty flowers and attractive leaves, and not enough time thinking about how very, very important the roots are to plant health. If you work to grow healthy plant roots by watering adequately and feeding your plants, your plants will develop roots that can support attractive leaves and pretty flowers. When trees, shrubs and perennials aren’t thriving, it is usually due to a lack of water. Plants can survive without fertilizer; they cannot survive and thrive without water. Plants in poor health from a lack of water tend to be more prone to diseases and pests. It’s nature’s way of culling weak plants.

Healthy Roots, Healthy Trees

Spring Plant Damage

If you are seeing plant damage this spring, I strongly suggest it is from a lack of water at the time of planting, during last summer’s heat, and last fall’s drought. I’m seeing plants that are very hardy in our area completely gone this spring. With last summer’s heat, little winter snow, and even less spring rain, we are already in drought conditions. You cannot depend on an irrigation system to supply enough water to newly installed plants with small, immature root systems – any plants installed in the last 2 growing seasons. Extra water must be applied for these plants to thrive. If you have soaker hose system, please ensure the hose sits directly beside the plants and there is enough soaker hose to reach every plant. If you have a spray head system, please ensure water is not being blocked by taller plants. Flowering gardens with soaker hose require at least 1 hour and 15 minutes of water per session, whereas spray head systems require at least 45 minutes of water per session. This timing applies for the full growing season. If you are in an area with sandy soil, watering is your number one priority. Plants starting to wilt, the leaves of deciduous trees looking soft not ridged, and needles of coniferous trees dropping are sure signs your plants are not receiving adequate amounts water during watering sessions. 

Water the Roots…Not the Leaves  

Many plants have perished because they didn’t get sufficient water at the time of planting and during their first two growing seasons. If you want to grow healthy, strong plants in your yard, you need to promote strong, healthy deep roots systems.

Think Roots First!

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

Plants That Deter Rodents!

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Hello Gardeners.  Question of the Week!

I had a question from Alyssa this week regarding what to plant in order to deter rodents from her garden, and do well in clay soil.  When it comes to rodents, plants with strong or a particular nasty smell tend to be good natural repellents.

Photo by Nick Fewing Unsplash

My Best Suggestions for Perennials

Pincushion (Euphorbia)

Catmint (Nepeta)

Perennial Ornamental Onion (Allium)

Garden Sage (Salvia)

Beebalm (Monarda)

Giant Hyssop (Agastache)

Wormwood (Artemisia)

Lilly-of-the-Valley (Convallaria)

Each of these perennials comes in a variety of colours, textures, and heights. 

My Best Suggestions for Bulbs

Daffodils

Grape Hyacinth

Wood Squill

Allium

Gladiola

Snowdrops

Garlic

Fritillaria

My Best Suggestions for Annuals

Lavender (Lavandula) short-lived perennial

Snapdragon

Marigold

Nicotiana

Good Luck!

You-dirty-rat!

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

Part Two of Vegetables, Herbs, Fruit & Edible Flowers in a Container

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Brilliant Ideas! Steal this One!

Growing edibles like veggies, flowers, and herbs is gaining popularity right now. Why? Because it’s easy! Edibles you grow yourself are healthier, taste better, and in many cases are cheaper than buying them at the store.

Not all of us have the space or the desire to grow a large vegetable garden. Container gardening means anyone can grow their own crops, even in a small space.  

What You’ll Need!

You just need the right growing conditions. All vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs need at least 6+ hours of direct sun every day for the best results. You will need a good soil mix – I like Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix (Sphagnum peat moss, black earth (humus), coconut husk fibre, Biosol compost, lime, organic fertilizers) as it creates the perfect environment for veggies and herb growing. Don’t forget to fertilizer. Try Farad’s Vegetable Organic 4-3-7 slow release fertilizer. Simply sprinkle the pellets on the top of the soil and as you water, the nutrients break down and are released to plants roots. When selecting a container for growing vegetables, make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom to take away excess water and that you cover the holes with landscape fabric so soil doesn’t seep out when you water. Make sure to water your containers daily – if not twice a day – in warm weather.  Soil needs to be moist but not wet. Just a gentle reminder, wait until frost has pasted usually after the long weekend in May before starting your container gardens.     

Here’s a few brilliant ideas for growing vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs in containers!

Vertical Tee-Pee Vegetables in a Container

You can grow vegetables vertically using just a couple simple items: a large container, soil, seeds, bamboo stakes and twine, making this perfect for a small space. Brilliant Idea! Select a container with at least a depth of 12 inches. Fill the container with Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix until the soil is about 2 inches from the top.  Tamp down the soil to remove any air pockets.  Take your bamboo stakes and place one stake at the north, one in the south, one in the east and one in the west locations in the container, pushing the stakes into the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches. Take a couple seeds and place them on the soil close to each one of the stakes and gently push the seeds into the soil to a depth of ½ inch then cover up the seeds with soil. Next pull the bamboo stakes together to the top so they meet and wrap them all with twine about 3 inches down. Now you have a tee-pee. Wrap twine around each of the bamboo stakes creating a web for your vertical vegetables to grow up. As your seeds grow and mature, make sure to guide the vines and stems towards the twine and if needed, tie them to the web. What can you grow in a tee-pee container? Try the following seeds for the best results:

  • Beans (bush, pole, green, or string beans)
  • Cucumbers
  • Zucchini
  • Small squash varieties
  • Peas (green, sweet or snow peas)
  • Nasturtiums
Tee Pee Containers Photo – Vertical Gardening Gardens

Veggies in a Galvanized Trough  

For the last few years, I have been using this method for clients wanting to grow vegetables. One of the greatest advantages of this method means you don’t have to dig out, fill, and cultivate the soil like you would in an inground garden.  Large metal trough gardens are gaining popularity.  So, what is a galvanized container?  Galvanizing is the process of applying zinc to steel to resist oxidation and prevent corrosion or rusting.  Livestock eat and drink from galvanized troughs all the time.  Galvanized troughs can be purchased at hardware stores or farm suppliers. If you choose to use a galvanized trough or two, you will want to make sure it is located on ground level because once it’s filled with soil and plants it will be heavy. For me, I like the trough to be a couple inches above ground so I suggest placing wood (2×4’s) or concrete paver supports under the trough. This will allow for air flow under the trough and provides a place for water to drain.  You’ll want to make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of the trough.  You can drill or punch holes (using a quarter or half inch metal drill bit) in the bottom about 12 inches apart and then place a piece of landscape fabric over the holes to ensure soil doesn’t seep out when watering. Depending on the depth of the trough, fill about halfway with screened topsoil, and tamp down the soil to remove air pockets. Fill the remaining trough with Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix until the soil is about 2 inches from the top of the trough. Firmly tamp down the soil to remove air pockets. You might need to add a bit more soil once you have tamped down to bring the level up to 2 inched from the top. Now you’re ready for planting. Select vegetable seeds that are quick germinating and fast growing for the best results. Remember to place taller plants behind shorter plants so as they grow, tall plants do not shade short ones.  You can place seeds or seedlings directly into the soil. Try out these vegetables, listed by height:

  • 4-5” chives, lettuce, salad greens, radishes, basil
  • 6-7” peas, bush beans, onions
  • 8-9” carrots, swiss chard, leeks, peppers, parsley, rosemary, spinach
  • 10-12” beets, potatoes, dill, lemongrass, green beans
Galvanized Trough from Rona
Galvanized Trough available at Rona

Don’t forget to check your vegetables, daily. Trough vegetables require more water then inground vegetables so you will need to water daily (sometimes twice daily in dry conditions) for the best growing results.

The Edible Flower Container

Edible flowers in containers – okay not for everyone – however I know I spend too much money at our local store when I want edible flowers. There are many flowers that are safe to eat and many of the flowers of culinary herbs are edible. Edible flowers are great for salads, prettying up desserts, adding colour to entrees, and can be sugared. Why not try your hand at planting an edible flower container? Brilliant Idea! How to get started: select a large container as you’ll want to have enough room in your container for growing a mix of flowers. I would suggest a container at least 12 inches deep and at least 20 inches wide.  Make sure the container has drainage holes in the bottom. You can cover the drainage holes with landscape fabric to ensure soil doesn’t seep out when you water. Fill the container with Fafard’s Container Mix. This soil mix promotes 2x more blooms and requires 30% less water than most popular container mixes which is ideal for planting flowering annuals. Most edible flowers can be purchased in cell packs and transplanted directly into a container. I love Rainbow swiss chard so that would be my focal point in the middle for my edible container. Around swiss chard, I would plant a few of the following:

  • Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) produce edible flowers great for salads or as decoration for entrees
  • Pansies (Viola X wittrockiana) flower petals are edible and highly decorative
  • Calendula (Calendula officinalis) edible flower petals
  • Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) the little florets of the flowers can be separated and scattered in salads
  • Basil (Ocimum basilicum) wait for basil to flower, flowers great sprinkled over pasta
  • Radish (Raphanu sativus) let radish go to flower, flowers are spicy-hot great for soups and salads
  • Rose (Rosa spp.) flower petals are edible however you need to remove the bitter white base
Edible Chive Florets photo by Hayley-Maxwell Unsplash

A few tips: remember before venturing out to harvest a bunch of flowers, it’s important to remember that some flowers are poisonous. You need to make sure you identify each variety before using and don’t use flowers that have been sprayed with pesticides or chemicals. Pick edible flowers in the morning before the heat of the day, and keep them on a dampened paper towel inside a sealed container in the refrigerator for best freshness.

Edible Pansy Petals photo by Mostafa-Meraji Unsplash

Something for the Kids!  Rubber Boot Containers

What do you do with rubber boots kids have out-grown? Turn them into vegetable or herb containers, of course.  Brilliant Idea! Wonderful, fun container gardens for kids that are colourful and easy to do. Wash out old rubber boots really well, then poke a couple holes in the sides for drainage. Fill with Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix to a level of about 1 inch from the top of the boot.  Tamp down the soil to make sure you remove air pockets.  Now plant with kid fun vegetables, edible flowers and herbs. Give these plants a try either from seed or cell pack:   

  • Mixed greens
  • Chives
  • Parsley
  • Pansies
  • Nasturtiums
  • Strawberries
Kids Container Gardens photo by June Admiraal on Unsplash

Cut out the toes of the rubber boots and plant with herbs like:

  • Basil
  • Parsley
  • Thyme

This is a great way to get kids outside and into the sunshine.  And who knows, perhaps your kids will be our next generation of gardeners.

Use your imagination to create amazing edible containers. Growing vegetables, herbs and edible flowers is easy and fun for everyone!

Happy Gardening

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

Part One of Vegetables, Herbs, Fruit & Edible Flowers in a Container

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Brilliant Ideas! Steal this One!

Growing edibles like veggies, flowers, and herbs is gaining popularity right now. Why? Because it’s easy! Edibles you grow yourself are healthier, taste better, and in many cases are cheaper than buying them at the store.

Not all of us have the space or the desire to grow a large vegetable garden. Container gardening means anyone can grow their own crops, even in a small space.  

What You’ll Need!

You just need the right growing conditions. All vegetables, fruits, edible flowers, and herbs need at least 6+ hours of direct sun every day for the best results. You will need a good soil mix – I like Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix (Sphagnum peat moss, black earth (humus), coconut husk fibre, Biosol compost, lime, organic fertilizers) as it creates the perfect environment for veggies and herb growing. Don’t forget to fertilizer. Try Farad’s Vegetable Organic 4-3-7 slow release fertilizer. Simply sprinkle the pellets on the top of the soil and as you water, the nutrients break down and are released to plants roots. When selecting a container for growing vegetables, make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom to take away excess water and that you cover the holes with landscape fabric so soil doesn’t seep out when you water. Make sure to water your containers daily – if not twice a day – in warm weather.  Soil needs to be moist but not wet. Just a gentle reminder, wait until frost has pasted usually after the long weekend in May before starting your container gardens. 

   

Fafard's Urban Garden Container Mix Available through Ego's Garden Center Online
Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix is available at Ego’s Garden Center Online
Fafard's Vegetable Garden 4-3-7 Fertilizer Available through Ego's Garden Centre Online
Fafard’s Vegetable Garden 4-3-7 Fertilizer is available at Ego’s Garden Centre Online

Here’s a few brilliant ideas for growing vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs in containers!

Strawberries in a Hanging Basket


Hanging Strawberries photo by Soo Ann Woon on Unsplash

Love strawberries but lack space? Try strawberries in a hanging basket. For the best performance, try a couple different varieties. June-bearing strawberries produce fruit in early summer whereas ever-bearing strawberries produce fruit mid-summer through to frost. Plant one hanging basket of each variety and enjoy strawberries throughout the summer. Fill hanging baskets with Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix to about 1 inch from the top of the basket. Using strawberry starter plants, place plants around the hanging basket leaving enough room for each to grow.  You will need between 5-6 starter plants per hanging basket.  Make sure plants roots are buried in the soil, hang the baskets in a sunny location, and check them daily, watering when needed. You will know when it’s time to harvest because the berries will have turned red.  

Potatoes in a Bag

If you like potatoes, and who doesn’t, try your hand at potatoes in a bag.  A simple way to get home-grown produce.

Start with a potato bag (can be purchased) or a burlap bag, and place 6 inches of soil in the bottom.  For soil I would use Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix. Plant 3-5 seed potatoes (mixed potato varieties are okay) in the soil, evenly spacing out the seed potatoes and cover with 3 inches of soil.  At this stage, you don’t need to water.  Overwatering can rot the seed potatoes. Once the foliage emerges, you can water daily when the soil is dry. The idea is to keep the soil consistently moist but not overly wet. When the foliage and stems of the potatoes reach a height of 12 inches above the soil, it is time to add 6 more inches of soil (this is called hilling) around the base of the plants – it’s okay to cover the lower leaves and stems with soil. Mix a couple tablespoons of Fafard’s Organic Vegetable Fertilizer in with the hilling soil for added nutrients.  Continue growing until the potato stems and foliage are once again 12 inches in height and add another 6 inches of soil around the base of the plants. At this point you should have about 18-20 inches of soil in the bag.  Continue to grow until the plants start to wilt and the leaves have turned brown. It’s time to harvest your potatoes. If you are using a burlap bag, you can simply cut down the side of the bag and harvest your crop. Enjoy!

‘How-To’ Plant Potatoes in a Bag from West Coast Seeds

Lettuce in a Barrel

‘Grow Your Own Salad’ photo by Mike Kenneally on Unsplashs

Salad greens and loose lettuce in a barrel (or large container) means you get fresh produce over-and-over. Lettuce is quick growing, takes up little room, and is delicious. Here’s how it’s done. Take a large barrel – you need at least 12 inches of soil for best results – fill with Fafard’s Urban Garden Container Mix to about 2 inches from the top of the container and tamp down the soil to get out air pockets. Take a pinch of lettuce seeds and sprinkle them over the soil thinly and evenly – you don’t want too many seeds in one area. Cover the seeds with a fine layer of soil about ½ inch in depth, and very gently firm down the seeds and soil. This ensures the seeds come into direct contact with soil. Carefully water the newly planted seeds using a watering can – you don’t want to wash the seeds around. Move to a sunny location. You will need to check on your seeds, daily.  Make sure you keep the seed bed moist, not wet.  It will take about 5-10 days for them to germinate.  When the seedlings start at appear and are about 1-2 inches in height, you will need to thin them out. Remove some of the seedlings until there is about 2 inches between each of the plants. Brilliant Idea! You can use the discarded seedling to start a new container garden. Keep watering and check your plants daily. In about 4-6 weeks you will be rewarded with a lovely crop of lettuce.  Use a sharp pair of scissors and cut away the largest outside leaves every couple of days.  This will stimulate new leaf growth. Start a second container (or even a third container) of lettuce a few weeks after the first container for a continuous supply of summer lettuce and salad greens. 

Use your imagination to create amazing edible containers. Growing vegetables, herbs and edible flowers is easy and fun for everyone!

Lexi

The Gabby Gardener

Six essential spring flowering garden tips

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The Basics

April brings out the eager gardener in everyone. We want to get out there and cutback perennials, prune shrubs and putter about in the sunshine. Here are a few essential tips for opening your flowering gardens this spring.

Tip one: Understand your soil

Don’t rush spring. It’s important to wait until the soil in your garden is warm and dry. Working a garden that is still cold and wet can lead to soil compaction. That’s bad! Walking on cold, wet soil crushes soil pore spaces – those are little pockets of air between soil particles. Crushed soil pore spaces can lead to soil compaction. When it rains or you water, it will run off your garden instead of percolating into the soil.  

Tip two: Clean out winter debris

Ideally, just as spring bulbs start to pop up it is time to clean debris from your flowering gardens. This includes removing matted down leaves, last year’s perennial stems and ornamental grass blades.  Remember, lots of beneficial insects, including tiny native bees and predators, spend the winter hunkered down in hollow plant stems either as adults or pupae. Cutting down dead plant stems too early in the spring can disturb them before they have had a chance to emerge.  

Spring bee on spring crocus

I use my hand to rake matted leaves (I wear a glove) from my gardens instead of using a formal garden rake. By using my hand to rake debris, I’m able to leave as much garden mulch intact as possible. This in turn saves me money in mulch replacement. 

Cut back perennial stems using sharp pruners; while ornamental grasses blades can be cut back using sharp hedge clippers. Neither needs cutting right back to the ground to the crown of the plant. Cut back perennials to about three inches from the ground. Ornamental grasses at a height of six inches is more than adequate.  

Properly cutback perennials
Properly cutback ornamental grasses

Tip three: Tidy up shrubs

Most flowering shrubs require a bit of a ‘tidy up’ rather than a ‘cut it all down’ prune in spring. If your shrubs have been in the ground less then three years, spring clean-up is a breeze. Here’s what you need to do:

  1. Remove any broken branches or stems with sharp pruners.  
  2. Remove any dead (last season’s) blooms.
  3. Remember, if it flowers in the spring (April, May or June) now is not the time to prune. Prune after they bloom. Spring blooming shrubs set flower buds in the fall. A hard spring pruning can remove or damage new flowers. Here is a short list of shrubs that flower in spring.
    • Forsythia
    • Lilac
    • Ninebark
    • Serviceberry
    • Deutzia
    • Weigela
  4. Shrubs that bloom in the summer (July, August and September) are safe to prune now, as they set flower buds in the spring. Here’s a short list of summer blooming shrubs.
    • Hydrangea
    • Spirea
    • Potentilla
    • Rose of Sharon
    • Summersweet

If you’re not sure of what or how to tidy your shrubs, shoot me an email.

Tip four: Weed, weed and weed

Garden weeds that appear in the spring are easy to remove because they have shallow roots. You can simply pull small weeds by hand or use an old table fork (this works really well) to get weeds out. Very clever! Weeds can be cultivated using a sharp hoe to slice the undesired plant just below the soil line so they shrivel up and die. For larger more developed weeds, you will need to get the shovel to dig out and attack weeds at their roots. Note: For smaller weed removal, garden soil should be a bit damp for best results. However, for weed removal using a garden hoe or shovel, it best to wait until soil is warm and gardens are dry. “Weeds are nature’s graffiti.” ~ J.L.W. Brooks

Tip five: Feed your plants and water well

Trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses need fuel to produce luxurious blooms, sturdy stems and vigorous leaves. Late May is the perfect time to apply a well-balanced granular fertilizer (15-15-15) to plants.  There is no need to purchase fertilizer for every type of plant in your yard. A balanced fertilizer is all you need. Fertilizer can be applied around the plant root zone (side-dress) with perennials, which need only a couple tablespoons of feed. Large, mature trees do best with between two to three cups of fertilizer.  Make sure to not allow fertilizer granules to cluster in the crown of the plants, as it may cause burning. Water in fertilizer well after feeding.   

Tip six: Mulch has a job

Mulching helps retain soil moisture by providing a protective layer between soil, sun and drying winds. It keeps soil cool, helps prevent crusting and leaching and inhibits the growth of weed seeds. Natural organic mulches add humus, as soil organisms like earthworms break it down. This organic waste (soil aggregates) helps build soil structure. So mulching is a good thing. And gives your flowering gardens a professional, finished look.

In the spring, it’s important to move (or fluff) your mulch. I know right? What happens is mulch compresses with the weight of snow leaving a crust on the top. Moving mulch around in the spring, breaks up this crest layer and allows water to flow through to the soil. If mulch is not uncrested, water will simply run off leaving plants thirsty. Once you have moved the mulch around, you might find spots with little or no mulch. Now is the time to top up mulch to a depth of two to three inches in all garden areas.

Enjoy the lovely spring weather by getting out in your gardens. Landscapes for Living!

Lexi Dearborn

Dearborn Designs & Associates | Advanced Master Gardener | Certified Horticulturist

Plant Science! Why do Plants Wilt in your Garden?

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Water, Water, Water!

There are a few reasons why plants wilt however the most common reason outdoor plants wilt is from a lack of water.

Turgor Pressure in Plants

In simple terms, plants wilt when there isn’t enough water in their leaves and stems to support the plant. Turgor pressure (I’m getting my science on) in leaves and stems is low so they start to look droopy.

Remember Grade 10 biology?  When the teacher talked about osmosis?  The movement of water across a membrane from an area of high pressure to an area of low pressure. Come on, you remember this!

When there isn’t enough water in the soil surrounding plant roots, roots can’t take up enough water to keep turgor pressure strong in leaves and stems, so plants start to droop. They loss their turgor! After a good rain (or watering) plants will start to perk up again as roots take up water via osmosis to leaves and stems, therefore increasing turgor pressure in their cells. That’s plant science!

Sketch from Ms. Arnwine – Weebly

Why is it importance to keep plants from wilting, you ask? 

One of the main reasons is cell damage.  When plants lack water and wilt, cells in the plant get damaged. Over time from a lack of rain (or you forget to water) cell damage can occur and you will see dark spots on leaves and stems or dead leaves on your plants. If left for too long without water, plants can die.

With our summers being so hot and dry, selecting the right plant for the right location becomes very important. 

Great List of Perennials for Hot, Dry Locations

Plants with tuberous roots have the ability to store water for times of drought. Daylilies are a great example of plants with tuberous roots and therefore, are a great choice for hot, dry locations. Plants with tuberous or bulb roots!

Iris

Peony (Paeonia)

Stonecrop (Sedum)

Crocosmia

If you don’t like to water, you can select plants with small leaves and pretty blooms.  Try a few of these! 

Yarrow (Achillea)

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias)

Tickseed (Coreopsis)

Globe Thistle (Echinops)

Lenton Rose (Helleborus)

Catmint (Nepeta)

Meadow Sage (Salvia)

Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Keep your plants happy by watering before they wilt. Get outside, have fun in your gardens.

Lexi – The Gabby Gardener

Spring has Sprung

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I love spring. It’s so exciting…the snow is melting after a long winter, the birds are returning and singing their wonderful songs, and my inner gardener is itching to get out there and play.

As an avid gardener, I feel the draw. I see the winter debris, and I just want to get it all cleaned up.  I also know I have to be patient.

Did you know soil has air pockets? Yes it does!  When we walk in the garden too early, these air pockets become damaged. Without getting into a whole science lesson here, soil air pockets allow plant roots to breathe and allow water to drain away from the plant roots during times of heavy rains or melting snow.  When roots can’t breathe due to soil compaction (from my big boots), plant roots can fail. Hmmmm… I must be patient.

Grandmother’s advice. The first full moon in June. Yep, my grandmother always said, ‘We can get frost until the first full moon in June’ and she was right.  In our area the weather can be all over the place.  Snow one day, sun the next, followed by a few days of rain, then snow again.  If you’re looking to plant out in April to get some colour, pansies and spring bulbs are the way to go.

Each spring like many gardeners, I start my spring ‘crawl’ through the garden centres hunting the latest and greatest finds. And every April I see folks arriving at the garden centre on the first sunny day looking for plants to install.  April isn’t the right time of year to be looking to plant out. The daytime temperatures maybe be warm however the nighttime temperatures can freeze tender new plants.

Bee Power!

Last May I really wanted to get ahead of my spring design rush and get a bit of work completed in my home gardens. I selected a few new lovely shrubs I thought would look great in my front flowerbeds.  Not one of my best ideas.  I planted those poor shrubs out way too early and it took them much longer to get ‘their feet’ under them than it should have.  If I had been patient and planted closer to the May long weekend when it was much warmer, my pretty shrubs would have been much more successful and I wouldn’t be replacing some of them this spring.  Patience. Just a bit of patience.

Getting out into gardens too early to complete a good spring cleaning isn’t the best decision. Some of the bugs and bees who over-wintered in my garden debris are still dormant, waiting for warmer temperatures to make their appearance.  Cleaning out my gardens too early takes away the protective layer of dried leaves and stems, therefore exposing these garden helpers to the elements.  Patience is the key to giving this year’s pollinators and predators a fighting chance.

Gardening is the quiet act of patience. A ‘journey’, not a ‘destination’. And like life, gardens ebb and weave, change season to season and month to month, having their own unique personalities.

 

The Autumn Garden | Make it Alluring

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FRONT ENTRANCE STONE GARDENS WELCOME HOME DEARBORN DESIGNS LANDSCAPE 8Ah, Autumn!

The time of year dedicated to grand colour changes.   A time when our thoughts wander to putting our gardens to bed, maybe raking the leaves, or moving around a few perennials. I often wonder if we miss some of the greatest moments in our own gardens. I know I have!

“Design for All Seasons!”

I believe the autumn garden can be as inviting and interesting as any summer garden. Trees, flowering shrubs, woody vines, and ornamental grasses share the garden spotlight as their colours intensify. It only takes a few wonderful plants to create an Alluring Autumn Garden.

When I work on a project, plant materials are selected not only for their great summer qualities, but for their ‘talents’ in the autumn garden. Plants really need to work. To make the list, I’m looking for talents like great colour – in foliage or blooms or both, wonderful fall berries, interesting textures, movement, or maybe it’s just as simple as a great shape. I look beyond the pretty flowers. I consider plants without their blooms. And remember, autumn’s light can be stunning to work with so take advantage of the golden to red glows of fading light to enhance your Alluring Autumn Garden.

Take time to enjoy the special moments in every Autumn Garden … they all have their Allure.

‘Autumn is a second spring where every leaf is a flower’ – Albert Camus

fall-crocus-with-periwinkle-crocus-and-vinca

The bright purple blooms of Fall Crocus, planted with the dark green foliage of Periwinkle make a winning combination in the autumn garden. Picture taken Mid October.

GARDEN_design_vertical

The golden leaves of Stephanandra creep over a stone wall, blending with the bright red blooms of a Blushing Bride Hydrangea and the deep red and maroon foliage of a Bloodgood Japanese Maple. While the white bark of a Heritage Birch is highlighted by the deep burgundy foliage of Red Carpet Sedum, drawing the viewer’s eye to this stunning autumn garden, set in a simple raised stone garden.

AUTUMN GARDEN LANDSCAPE DESIGNER BARRIE

The bright red and maroon foliage of a Bloodgood Japanese Maple blends with the fading blooms of Blushing Bride Hydrangea while the waxy foliage of White Bergenia starts to turn burgundy. This White Summer gardens turn to shades of red in the autumn.   Picture taken the first week of November.

Residential Rain Gardens

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RAin Garden Picture lake Simcoe

Rain Garden from Lake Simcoe Conservation Authority

A Rain Garden is an engineered landscape feature that takes advantage of rainfall, storm water, and melting snow, by collecting and temporarily storing the runoff from eaves troughs, lawns, and driveways | walkways.

Rain Garden Elements

It’s all about the garden design and the plant selection that makes this feature work. Usually, it is a small garden which is designed to withstand the extremes of moisture and concentrations of nutrients, particularly Nitrogen and Phosphorus that are found in storm water runoff.

Why a Rain Garden?

  • Stormwater runoff can increases flooding
  • Increases the amount of water that filters into the ground which recharges local & regional aquifers
  • Helps protect streams & lakes from pollutants carried by stormwater – lawn fertilizers & pesticides, oil & other fluids that leak from cars, & numerous harmful substances that wash off roofs & paved areas
  • Enhancing the beauty of yards & neighborhoods
  • Provides valuable habitats for birds, butterflies & beneficial insects
  • Is your personal contribution to cleaner water

When to Install a Rain Garden!

  • If you are experiencing drainage and erosion problems a Rain Garden can helps control water on the property
  • If you have disconnect your downspouts | wet around the foundation a Rain Garden can help
  • If you have the ‘space’ to install this garden feature | the feature should not be any closer to the house then 10 feet
  • If you want to take advantage of a slope or grading change
  • If you want to attract butterflies, birds and pollinators to your yard
  • If you want to lower your water bills & grass cutting

Construction of a Rain Garden

Rain Garden Detail Coloured jpeg

Plants | Native | Non-Native

  • Plants need to tolerate both flooding as well as dry periods
  • Don’t over plant | 1 plant for every 10 to 15 square feet of garden
  • Plant for vertical layering | mix of tall, medium and low growing plants
  • Salt Tolerant if in the front yard
  • Light conditions | Sun | Shade
  • Consider Dwarf Trees | Tall Shrubs | Perennials | Grasses

Native Trees | Flowering Shrubs

  • Kentucky Coffee Tree| Northern Red Oak | River Birch
  • Serviceberry | Witchhazel| Inkberry | Willow | Pussy Willow
  • Blueberry | Chokeberry | St. John’s Wort | Low Bush Honeysuckle | Red Twig Dogwood | Arrowwood
  • Native Lilac | Snowberry | Buttonbush | Elderberry | Summersweet | Swamp Rose

Perennials

  • Ferns | Sedges | Native Grasses
  • Cardinal Flower | Blue Lobelia | Beebalm | Brown-Eyed Susan | Marsh Marigold | Red Columbine | Swamp Milkweed
  • Ironweed | Flag Iris | Joe Pye Weed | Liatris
  • Swamp Sunflower | Turtlehead | Virginia Bluebells
  • Wild Ginger | Anemone | Foamflower | Lilyturf

Native Groundcover | Evergreens

  • Jack Pine | Larch | Tamarack | White Spruce | Cedars
  • Bayberry | Bearberry | Winterberry